Rome is, of course, what we compare Naples to. Life is hard for most Italians -- Romans and Neopolitans alike. But Romans in particular seem to have this unique ability (passion? determination?) to enjoy life no matter what life throws at them.
Naples is raw and gritty. Graffiti greets you from nearly every angle. Hard, resigned looks adorn most faces you encounter on the sidewalk. Neapolitan drivers are a little quicker with the horn, metal grates are pulled down over storefronts at night, trash is freely thrown in the street.
There are no public restrooms (thank God for Burger King!), and signs of hard living are impossible to miss—cigarette butts, broken bottles, panhandlers, well-worn shop-keepers, well-worn cars and motorbikes parked any which way, laundry hanging desperately from balconies. This is Europe’s most densely populated city, and it shows.
There are no public restrooms (thank God for Burger King!), and signs of hard living are impossible to miss—cigarette butts, broken bottles, panhandlers, well-worn shop-keepers, well-worn cars and motorbikes parked any which way, laundry hanging desperately from balconies. This is Europe’s most densely populated city, and it shows.
We had a fantastic hotel – the Grand Hotel Europa (thanks, Rick Steves!) – a two minute walk from the train station, quiet, friendly, with a small balcony, and breakfast included.
The best part of Naples? Great pizza!


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